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Dj's United > Sound & Lighting Discussion > Techie Talk

Professional Mobile Disco & Wedding Disco
Digital discos
So I want to provide power for my extension board in my console case. Now I want to use a powercon chassis on my patch panel.

Which type will I need? Type a or b?

Basically 4 way ---------Powercon Chassis-------Powercon Connector---Wall Socket


Do the powercons come with a gland or will I need to use something else to cover up the bar wires?
minicooper172
Blue Powercons is what you need. One blue chassis Powercon, and one blue Cable powercon.

Problem solved by me! biggrin.gif

Chrispy
Powercons....from memory type 'A' (Blue) style for power inlet and Type 'B' (grey) style for power outlet,

So as mentioned above, blue powercons

This connector from the mains lead coming from the wall socket

This chassis connector on the case

This is assuming that the chassis socket is used as a power inlet and not an outlet and therefore not 'live' when the plug is removed.
Digital discos
Cheers Mini/Chris P!

Much aprpeciated...
Digital discos
Do they come with a gland? To cover up any cores/bare wire?

Or would I have to use some heatshrink?
Chrispy
The powercon chassis don't come with a sleeve, however you can either use insulated faston connectors or sleeve them with heatshrink.
Digital discos
Are they both as good?

Insulated faston connectors? Never heard of them? Do you have a link to one? 533.gif
Chrispy
Sorry, an automotive term used at work, force of habit hide.gif

Faston is the crimp tab often used in Automotive speakers and switches and sometimes refered to as 'spade crimp terminal'

user posted image

The insulated one looks like this:-

user posted image

The powercon should accept faston terminals, but check the PDF datasheet on the link I gave above to doublecheck and varify the size - fastons come in 6.3 and 4.8mm versions.
Digital discos
Cheers Chris they look ideal for my needs!

If for some reason I couldn't get hold of the fastons would heatshrink tied down with cable ties (the plastic ones) or electrical tape be okay?
Chrispy
Avoid the electrical tape unless you really have to, heatshrink is far better and with less risk of peeling off due to age, heat etc.

You should be able to get the fastons from CPC, Maplin and any other electronics outlet. Even independant car spares shops have small carded packets of them in their electrical sections.

If you do have problems finding them, are unsure about or have difficulty crimping them correctly and securely, then you can solder the wires on, but use heatshrink if you can, far safer and professional thumbup.gif, and don't keep the iron on for too long otherwise it tends to melt the plastic and the terminals come loose.
Digital discos
Could you just clarify that these are okay. There the correct size as matched with the spec sheet of the powercon.

http://cpc.farnell.com/jsp/endecaSearch/pa...U=CN02335&N=411

Your help is really appreciated.

P.S I don't have to solder with a faston connector do I? Doesn't matter just curious.

I just worry too much!
Chrispy
No you don't need to solder with a Faston.

The crimps you have found are the correct series but are 4.8mm x 0.8mm and you need 4.8mm x 0.5mm according to the spec of the powercon.

This type doesn't seem to be stocked by CPC but you may find it at Maplin.

The 4.8mm x 0.8mm type will fit but it may be a little bit loose.
Gary
Just out of sheer curiousity, whats your reason for switching over to Powercon mains connectors (which I use already, and am very happy with), rather than the ol' IEC ("kettle") plugs?

I know of 2 excellent benefits, and one rare drawback with using them.
Digital discos
Well it was really for the securer and safer locking mechanism! Oh and they fit in a standard d type cut out! biggrin.gif (i'm a lazy boy fear.gif )

I can't really see a downfall?
Chrispy
QUOTE
Oh and they fit in a standard d type cut out!


Are you honestly telling me that you decided to forego the pleasure of many hours spent filing out metal, followed by almost severing a finger on the sharp metal edges in the process, together with the exquisite joy of finding that you've filed the hole just too big for the socket - in favour of the easy ready stamped connector option????

Surely not! kid.gif
YourBigEvent
The main advantage is security, leave the kit in place, take the powercon lead and nobody can switch your kit on.
Gary
QUOTE (ADS Entertainments @ Sep 1 2005, 11:14 PM)
The main advantage is security, leave the kit in place, take the powercon lead and nobody can switch your kit on.

Absolutely right - However this is the rare downfall also.

Forget, or break your own Powercon power lead and you can be almost 100% certain that you wont find any other lead to fit it. With an IEC you just borrow one off of a kettle, an overhead projector, one of your own lights etc.

And of course, always take two powercon leads around with you in your kit, in different boxes/cases...just in case(s)... rolleyes.gif
Digital discos
Glove box essential biggrin.gif
Gary
QUOTE (Digital discos @ Sep 2 2005, 12:51 AM)
Glove box essential biggrin.gif

Definately thumbup.gif
superstardeejay
These powercon chassis connectors are meant for incorporation in equipment where the rear of the connector is inaccessible except with the use of a tool. Heatshrink or Insulated Fastons are not considered safe enough to prevent finger contact with live terminals at mains voltage. The only accepted way would be to screw a small plastic box around the back of the connector. Fiddly, but the only proper way. You must also connect a mains earth to the metal plate on which the connectors are mounted.

You can get rubber boots but these are considered as only suitable for preserving the Class 2 rating of appliances in which powercons are fitted.

Doubtless you'll think my suggestions too fiddly but there we go.

minicooper172
QUOTE (Digital discos @ Aug 30 2005, 09:50 PM)
If for some reason I couldn't get hold of the fastons would heatshrink tied down with cable ties (the plastic ones) or electrical tape be okay?

Why on Earth would you want to tie or tape down heatshrink insulation?! Sort of defeats the point of it being heatshrink insulation...


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