Okay I'm seriously considering, turning some 150w/250w floodlights into a par can effect. With filters over the top.
I was thinking of using some LX tape and bending the filter gel away, to keep it away from the lamp in the floodlight. So the filter doesn't melt. And then wiring some iecs into a standmate or possible look at the multicore route terminate with a bulgin.
Would this be okay?
Or
I was thinking maybe making a frame like a par can to hold the gel away but I just cannot think of a good way of doing this.
Finally does anyone know a good dimmer/chase pack to use with these par cans?
Full Version: Floodlights, + Coloured Filters
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| QUOTE (Digital discos @ Jul 24 2005, 08:56 PM) |
| I was thinking of using some LX tape |
ADS is the forum tape man i believe, he surely will help you out
would it be okay?
I believe lx tape doesn't melt like gaffa. How did ROBBIED do his? As they certainly look very pro!
I believe lx tape doesn't melt like gaffa. How did ROBBIED do his? As they certainly look very pro!
I can assure you that the lx tape will eventually peel away and melt.
Get some proper par cans your cheap skate!
Thanks,
Daniel
Get some proper par cans your cheap skate!
Thanks,
Daniel
Just fancied a DIY Project 
using makeshift floodlights is not a good idea and could be a potential fire risk as the gel sits far too close to the lamp source and will burn and smolder. It also looks very cheap and taky especially when customers start to smell burning from the gel overheating.
alan
(Strobe Disco Show)
alan
(Strobe Disco Show)
i still maintain a good gel on a chasing controller will work
my floods have been out 6 times now since i built them, they passed their pat test and i got some good gel
each time out after 4 hours use, no problems and no need to replace the gel
i am only on 150w lights (but have 2 sets)
my floods have been out 6 times now since i built them, they passed their pat test and i got some good gel
each time out after 4 hours use, no problems and no need to replace the gel
i am only on 150w lights (but have 2 sets)
Par56 cans nowadays are only £15 each retail, plus about £10 for a lamp. That's cheap as chips lighting which does the job it was designed for. I would avoid using floodlamps altogether, it a marginal saving that is possibly not worth it in the long run, specially as floodlamp lamps are fragile and will need replacing often due to broken filaments whereas the par56 lamps are quite robust - I think I only had one fail last year, and I use them 50+ times a year.
If you want to use floods I use the 500w type with 250w bulbs, remove the glass from the front and use 10mm spacers to bring the gel holder away from the front of the unit. I have a setup up like this for 6 months and am still on the original gels and they work a treat
Spiito, surely the glass is part of the safety equipment???
| QUOTE (Digital discos @ Jul 24 2005, 11:04 PM) |
| I believe lx tape doesn't melt like gaffa. How did ROBBIED do his? As they certainly look very pro! |
Thank you. I used the frame that retains the glass to also retain the gel.
I gave details here: http://www.dj-forum.co.uk/index.php?showto...t=0&#entry59292
I wouldn't use tape. It would melt in no time.
I recently changed the gels as they had started to go clear in the centre. But even with the cost of putting new squares of gel in every 8 months, this is still a very low cost solution. (Oh, and never had any burning smells either.)
I gave details here: http://www.dj-forum.co.uk/index.php?showto...t=0&#entry59292
I wouldn't use tape. It would melt in no time.
I recently changed the gels as they had started to go clear in the centre. But even with the cost of putting new squares of gel in every 8 months, this is still a very low cost solution. (Oh, and never had any burning smells either.)
| QUOTE (brianmole @ Jul 25 2005, 01:34 PM) |
| Par56 cans nowadays are only £15 each retail, plus about £10 for a lamp. That's cheap as chips lighting which does the job it was designed for. I would avoid using floodlamps altogether, it a marginal saving that is possibly not worth it in the long run, specially as floodlamp lamps are fragile and will need replacing often due to broken filaments whereas the par56 lamps are quite robust - I think I only had one fail last year, and I use them 50+ times a year. |
I have eight PAR 56 cans as well, but since building these floods, I don't use the PAR cans anywhere near as much, as the floods take up much less space in the car, are quicker to set up, draw less power and provide almost as much light.
I've only had three floodlamp lamps fail in 8 months, and replacements are less than a pound each. PAR 56 lamps cost me £10 each.
But each has it's place. If I need to aim lighting at people, or at a dance floor, I use the PAR cans. The floods do not look good aimed at people, as they are just a spot of dazzling light. I typically aim them up at the ceiling, or at a wall, so that people only see the reflected light.
Here they are on top of tripods aimed up at the ceiling each side of the video screen:
Once it got darker, they gave a good coloured glow to the room. (They were also slightly behind the screen so as not to affect the picture.)
At this function in a barn, I was able to attach them to beams above the dance floor area, pointing downwards.
The below video was in a Marquee last weekend. Once the party got going they turned all the Marquee lights off. The only background lighting in here is from the two sets of home-made floods laying on the ground, pointing up at the walls (one set can be seen on the right) and four PAR 56 cans (can be seen on the left).
Link to video:
http://s54.yousendit.com/d.php?id=EMIEH1GH...WC2MX7Q4TA6268S
Being home built they are not perfect (ie having to change the gels every 8 months). But they gave me a chance to try something other than PAR cans. More important than cost, is that they have turned out to be a very effective, whilst being very compact.
I'm now thinking of upgrading them to some theatre style flood lights that have proper gel holders, or going for something like this;
which has no gels to melt, DMX control and fan cooling. The 500W lamps should also be brighter than my 150W floods. (Full details here: http://www.prolight.co.uk/product_more_inf...dnProductID=340 ) Out of interest, does anyone here use these iColour units? If so, how do you find them?
I've only had three floodlamp lamps fail in 8 months, and replacements are less than a pound each. PAR 56 lamps cost me £10 each.
But each has it's place. If I need to aim lighting at people, or at a dance floor, I use the PAR cans. The floods do not look good aimed at people, as they are just a spot of dazzling light. I typically aim them up at the ceiling, or at a wall, so that people only see the reflected light.
Here they are on top of tripods aimed up at the ceiling each side of the video screen:
Once it got darker, they gave a good coloured glow to the room. (They were also slightly behind the screen so as not to affect the picture.)
At this function in a barn, I was able to attach them to beams above the dance floor area, pointing downwards.
The below video was in a Marquee last weekend. Once the party got going they turned all the Marquee lights off. The only background lighting in here is from the two sets of home-made floods laying on the ground, pointing up at the walls (one set can be seen on the right) and four PAR 56 cans (can be seen on the left).
Link to video:
http://s54.yousendit.com/d.php?id=EMIEH1GH...WC2MX7Q4TA6268S
Being home built they are not perfect (ie having to change the gels every 8 months). But they gave me a chance to try something other than PAR cans. More important than cost, is that they have turned out to be a very effective, whilst being very compact.
I'm now thinking of upgrading them to some theatre style flood lights that have proper gel holders, or going for something like this;
which has no gels to melt, DMX control and fan cooling. The 500W lamps should also be brighter than my 150W floods. (Full details here: http://www.prolight.co.uk/product_more_inf...dnProductID=340 ) Out of interest, does anyone here use these iColour units? If so, how do you find them?
I use cabaret colours, which are very similar.
They work well for me, I use them to light bands.
They work well for me, I use them to light bands.
Caberet colours are now the one most people use I believe
Is that Bose Speakers I can see on the pole between the speakers ?
| QUOTE (nrgize @ Aug 3 2005, 10:14 PM) |
| Is that Bose Speakers I can see on the pole between the speakers ? |
Yes, they're 802's, on poles above subs.
I assume by Floodlights that you mean domestic outdoor linear halogens? I really wouldnt stick gel over those, if they catch fire you could be charged with negligence. The warning on the back usually states at least 0.5m distance between the face and any flammable material. If you remove the glass you might be infringing the UV or implosion protection, and possibly jeopardise your insurance. Weigh up the risks!!
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