Hello
Hope you can help as I am confused! I am thinking of buying these Carlsboro Speakers:
250W RMS (continuous) 500W (program) each
8 Ohm
Frequency response 60Hz - 20kHz
What amp will I need ?
Thanks
Andrew
Full Version: Speakers & Amps
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In an ideal world a amp that can put out 500watts rms into 8ohms....
however any amp thats rated above 250watts into 8 ohms is ok....
think about the future get a quality amp and/or one that will handle your system expanding .....
however any amp thats rated above 250watts into 8 ohms is ok....
think about the future get a quality amp and/or one that will handle your system expanding .....
get the best amp you can afford dont buy the cheep big output 1's as they dont cut it!i have a 500 watt rms each side drivin 250 watts rms speakers and it sounds sweet,the speakers work hard at times but with the amp havin the power all works well. tight bass and a clear top end. not sayin brands as dont think we is allowed,but you gets what you pay for.
Good luck
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| not sayin brands as dont think we is allowed |
No problem naming brands Steve, it is allowed. You can even say where you got them from.
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| In an ideal world a amp that can put out 500watts rms into 8ohms.... however any amp thats rated above 250watts into 8 ohms is ok.... |
Just to clarify,that is for the whole amp and not per channel.Correct?
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| Just to clarify,that is for the whole amp and not per channel.Correct? |
Nope thats per channel in stereo....
My speakers are 500RMS each, I use an amp that puts out 960watts RMS per Channel, as you can see the 960w RMS is as close to the "IDEAL WORLD" 1000w RMS....
Also the Damping Factor on larger AMP tends to be a lot better and they give better sound quality...
We're going to go through this whole thing again i can see but i'll also chime in and say you should be looking at an amp that can supply 1.5 to 2 times the rms rating of the speaker at the stated impedance
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| 500RMS each, I use an amp that puts out 960watts RMS per Channel |
I'm lost.So you are putting 960w rms@8 ohm into 500w rms speakers.I am sure I read some where it should be more like 400w.Just when I thought I was getting the hang of it 
Here it is
Gary says
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| If a speaker is rated at 500w RMS then by all means fire 500w RMS into it, from an amp capable of delivering 500w easily. A 500watt amp would delivery 500watts (ish) but it would be thrashing itself and just waiting to send some nasty DC bits into your speakers. Safer therefore to use say a 900watts rms amp, which will simply be "doing just nicely thanks" when being asked to deliver 500watts rms. (again, attentuators down, and compressor/limiter in-line too). What I think is crazy is when someone slaps a 1000watt amp, UNattenuated, onto a 500watt speaker, with their mixer outputing off into the red and wondering why their speaker cones ended up 40ft away, sunny-side down in the blue cheese dip on the buffet table:D then doing the Monday morning phone'round for re-coning services. |
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| I'm lost.So you are putting 960w rms@8 ohm into 500w rms speakers |
No!!
You have an amp that is capable of supplying more than the speakers rating, but you don't give the speakers more than they can handle.
The idea is that you never have to run the amp flat out. Obviously you have to use common sense and don't try to push what the amp is capable of supplying into the speakers or it's bye bye speakers.
I normally work on the principle of having an amp that can deliver about 1 third more power than the speakers, so the amp never gets turned up above 2 thirds of it's power, thus keeping it well within it's range so it never has to work too hard, which in turn means no distortion.
The RMS testing is not done with a musical signal. I believe it's done with something similar to a sine wave, which is an intense wave. Most cabs can handle more with recorded music.
a 500w speaker should easily handle 700w long term, it's when you start being stupid like 1200w etc etc.
Also a bigger amp gives you headroom.
a 500w speaker should easily handle 700w long term, it's when you start being stupid like 1200w etc etc.
Also a bigger amp gives you headroom.
I still think you could get in trouble pushing 960w into 500
the speakers will handle 500 rms all day long.. 1000w program and 2000w short term peak..
I never want to be putting 2k into them but i also never want to get to 500w rms and see my amp clip, clipping is the cause of 98% of speaker damage...
basicly when your amp clips you get a square wave rather than the ups and downs of a normal signal... the flat bits at the top equate to pure DC voltage from your amp, this heats up the voice coils and then they cook...
so if you see a clip light then you run the risk of doing damage.
now my amp can give me all 500w with out going near to clipping.. it also can give me near to the 1000w program power if lets say a recording has an extra loud bit..
this head room works in two ways... first i never see a clip light so no cooked coils..
second, it sounds better becuase the amp is not over worked, and it has the Damping factor needed to controll the speakers...
so as i said before in an ideal world you would have this head room in your amp.
so when i put together any sound system for any event I always go for as close to twice the RMS power of the speaker as possible and then add compressor/limmitor to the setup to make sure its all under control...
the problem is big amps with good quality parts and decent output figures are not cheep...
I never want to be putting 2k into them but i also never want to get to 500w rms and see my amp clip, clipping is the cause of 98% of speaker damage...
basicly when your amp clips you get a square wave rather than the ups and downs of a normal signal... the flat bits at the top equate to pure DC voltage from your amp, this heats up the voice coils and then they cook...
so if you see a clip light then you run the risk of doing damage.
now my amp can give me all 500w with out going near to clipping.. it also can give me near to the 1000w program power if lets say a recording has an extra loud bit..
this head room works in two ways... first i never see a clip light so no cooked coils..
second, it sounds better becuase the amp is not over worked, and it has the Damping factor needed to controll the speakers...
so as i said before in an ideal world you would have this head room in your amp.
so when i put together any sound system for any event I always go for as close to twice the RMS power of the speaker as possible and then add compressor/limmitor to the setup to make sure its all under control...
the problem is big amps with good quality parts and decent output figures are not cheep...
Highfidelity steve here I run a set of peavey hisys 2's powered by a warrior is1000 got two of them only use one tho and the sound is 
what more can i say
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