right.. i basicly need to know what watt amp I will need to buy to use with 2x 400w and 2x 300w speakers?

I dont really know anything bout what to use with what when it comes to sound.. it makes no sence to me so please give me a hand

Thtnaks

This is chris's area, but I think he would want to know what connectors the speakers have so he could team them up with an amp he has.

SBD

no i dont want to know a specific amp... just what Watt rating would be recomended. but anyway they have 4mm gold platted terminals and a 6.35mm jack socket on each speaker.

I know some will advise you to buy a 2000W amp and use it "Carefully" , and part of their advice is correct, however, for my own (and customers) peace of mind, I prefer to stay within the boundaries!.

If you are using (1x) 400W Speaker and (1x) 300W Speaker per channel. Then consider a 600W per Channel amplifier at 4 Ohms.

Hmmm - Banana Plugs and Jacks on a 400W Speaker?? - Are you sure these are RMS ratings??. Usually for 400W RMS you'll find Speakons / XLR's becuase if the current involved. CHECK!.

so it would be a 1200W amp? or what lol... i hjave no idea...

do you have any in ur stock that you recomend?

...Will check the RMS chris

I've got the rep for my range of CTECK amps coming in later this Afto, let me see what deal I can do for you.

Give me a few hours, and I'll email you a quote

thanks

Chris, the ratings are the max power not RMS. ive e-mailed back to get the RMS but for now its just to let you know that its not the RMS

Okay, can work out the RMS ratings from what you have given me. Needless to say it this is one of the things you need to think very carefully about when choosing Amps & Speakers. always use the RMS ratings, Max and PMPO or Peak ratings are designed to mislead the customer.

Mix the two figures, I.E buying an Amp which is running the same power at RMS into your MAX rated speakers can easily fry them . If in doubt ask.

Rob, i'm a little confused by your Gemini Range, I take it that the Cheaper Speakers are sold as being MAX wattage ratings? since there is no RMS after the values!. I'm talking "GT" and "GSM" series, Just asking since it has always been my policy to use the more accurate RMS Figures on both Amps & Speakers.

QUOTE (Chris_Pointon @ May 19 2003, 01:49 PM)

I've got the rep for my range of CTECK amps coming in later this Afto, let me see what deal I can do for you. Give me a few hours, and I'll email you a quote  :D

can you do the same for me, I am geting a crackling noise from one channel on My PV amp , if I cannot find a cure , may need a new one... Thanks..

P.S

Did you find any of those ceramic resistors I was looking for my horn protection

QUOTE

can you do the same for me, I am geting a crackling noise from one channel on My PV amp , if I cannot find a cure , may need a new one... Thanks..

Before you start throwing your money in my direction check the following:-

(1) This can be Dry Joints on the Pcb, carefully open the amplifier and connect an old loudspeaker to the amp (I don't recommend Younger Members attempting this!). Power up the Amplifier and gently tap the pcb with the (non metal end ) of a screw driver or other non metal blunt object. If the crackle appears in connection with the tapping then you've more than likely got a dry joint (Bad / corroded Solder joint) somewhere on the Channel PCB.

(2) Make sure the amp is disconnected. Check the fuse carriers on the pcb, there are usually 2 metal clips, or an entire fuse holder holding each fuse. Check that the fuses are held tightly and correctly in each fuse holder. Also look for any dust or corrosion on the fuse clips.

(3) Check the input / output connectors on your amp. Frequent connecting / disconnecting can cause these to fail, or pull away from the pcb. Test this by wiggling the Input and Output leads at the point that they connect to the Amp. Try also CAREFULLY tapping the pcb around the area in which the connectors sit.

(4) Check to see that its not a dodgy input level pot (control), if the crackling appears when you move the volume level control then it just needs the control pot replacing.

Try the above and if its 1, 3 or 4 then I can repair it far cheaper than the cost of a brand new amp. If its (2) then you can rectify it yourself easily.

Ok Chris...

ive just got word back and the speakers are 200W and 150W RMS so it would be a total of 700W RMS with all of them together with 350W per channel with a 200W and a 150W on each.

so would a 600W amp (300w per channel) be fine?

Thanks

Correct!, and this is what I'll quote you for . 2x 300 Watt will be okay. Just make sure that if you ever have cause to use only one pair of speakers, that you choose the 200W!.

woohoo... learn something new everyday lol

well its a possiblity that i wont be getting but smaller set of speakers but then again its possible that i will be.. it all depends on how much the amp will cost.

Okay...Deal time

I can do you the C-TECK MR2200 Which offers the following:-

2x 300 Watts RMS into 4 Ohms
2x 200 Watts RMS into 8 Ohms

It will work okay with your speakers, but be careful when using it with only one pair of Loudspeakers connected - and always use the 200W cabs when running a solo pair .

Price:- £195 + Delivery

It has all of the features found on the larger C-Teck range and you can see a piccy of the series on our "May Specials" area of this forum, or the website.

I don't stock the MR2200 as standard, I only usually hold the larger amps, but I can get it in for you, 3 - 4 working days.

right well lemmie think about it .. gotta work out the cash and see what i can spend etc.

QUOTE (Chris_Pointon @ May 19 2003, 05:23 PM)

Try the above and if its 1, 3 or 4 then I can repair it far cheaper than the cost of a brand new amp. If its (2) then you can rectify it yourself easily.

Ok, checked all points you mentioned , and all passed the quick test .

Opened the Amp , cleaned fuse connectors , Amp still crackling on B channel

Checked PCB for dry joints visually ,and with the help of a plastic rod pressed around the PCB and components. No amount of proding produced any more or less noise. even lifted the B channel PCB to look under it.

Checked Volume/Attenuator control pot for noise whilst turning , no luck

cleaned and checked all input outputs with servisol electrical cleaner. no luck .

tried new leads etc.


Chris for your info , the Amp is crackling on the B side , sounds like a loose wire on a Microphone, you can not hear the prob whilst playing music, only on the amp idling on silence.

It is even making this noise without any inputs connected , and at times without any input , the Signal light will light up along with the crackling.

If you were closer I could bring the Amp , but I think Postage would be high sending and return , thats before the cost of any repair

Shame as the amp is only about a year old and looks as new in and out , but as I bought it s/h without the orig reciepts no guarantee..

Chris - Gemini have in the past quoted "Music" or "Programme" power for speakers. It is widely used in the U.S.A. and of course In Car Audio. (Although the In Car boys seem to take things to the extreme!). Some time ago we agreed to standardise on RMS, or at least show both, because you are right it needs to be standardised. When many U.S. cometitors wind up showing nearly double your power, many people take that as gospel.

The latest catalogue, that came in yesterday shows clear RMS figures for all the range. Some in the post for you today.

Just a passing point and one I wouldn't get into an argument over; I've met quite a few Amp and Speaker designers who believe that music or peak power is an important parameter, because music is indeed made up of transients and peaks. And that is what the amp and speakers are handling. However that's OK for the experts. RMS provides a level and safe playing field.

Bill,

Okay, if you've virtually ruled out dry joints and bad connections then it is looking increasingly like a component failure. These types can be the most difficult to diagnose since it means going through each part of the amp with a 'scope looking for the source. Sometimes you can find it straight away other times it can take hours .

In addition to the crackle, is the channel producing any more noise than usual on idle?. Such as an increased level of Mains hum, or increased distortion at high power levels?. If so it may indicate a capacitor leaking (Electrically, not physically) on the Power supply side, again this can be a relatively cheap repair but hit and miss to diagnose without hooking up the amp to a 'scope.

Let me know what power level you are looking for amp wise, and i'll work out a quote.

Chris no increased humm or distorsion , music is fine even at high levels,

funny thing is , I tried set the amp to bridge mode , using it this way there is no crackle noises,

when in this mode it uses the "A good side volume control"

Can I run my Proels on bridge ? . or would this lower the Ohms to far as there are 2 bass and 2 tops ? .

cash permitting I would prefer the largest Amp in the range , will need to call you on this

Chris... Ive decided to get the 12" version of the speakers in stead (the others were 15") and so I can afford more on an amp.

Ive got £165 to spend on an amp after buying the speakers. These speakers are 150W each and so now I dont need such a powerful amp as the one you offered earlier. Can you offer a 400W amp (200 per channel) at a price to suit my budget?

Thanks

Hiya,

I can do you a Soundlab SP500, which is 2x 250W RMS Output at 4 Ohms, and should suit your requirements .

All of the usual features. 19" Rack mount (2u), Fan Cooled, Loudspeaker Protection etc. A good reliable 500W Amp!.

Price is £159 + £10 delivery. In Stock.

yeah i was looking at that earlier... right well I will probably be e-mailing you about purchasing that soon!