Hi Guys!
I'm Djing for a big b'day bash in two weeks and at previous gigs i have just unplugged my lights when i didn't want to use them.
I am really getting fed up with having to lean down and pull out plugs all the time so i wondered if anyone can recomend a good light control (just simply on and off switches).
I have also been advised to buy a normal power port with switches . Have you got any ideas if these are any good?
Look Forward to some replies!
DJOZ
Full Version: Light Controllers
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If your after a straight forward 4ch controller, if it still excists, the Multiphase 412, each channel can be switched - Off, Static, controlled.
Also look at Pulsar, and no doubt Chris will have something up his sleeve, other than his arm!!.
Also look at Pulsar, and no doubt Chris will have something up his sleeve, other than his arm!!.
Yeah im in the same boat I still have to switch of my light by pulling the plug which blows my lights all the time im still not sure which controller is the best for me as i dont want to buy one then realize its no good Chris to the rescue..... 
Okay there are two different options available to you. One quite cheap, the other not so cheap!.
The first option, is basically, just a switch panel, consisting of 4 or 8 mains switches fed from a single 13 Amp Cable. This allows you to physically switch upto 8 seperate lighting units. The outputs of these are usually on female IEC Sockets (You guys sometimes refer to the lead version as a "kettle lead"!). You just plug each effect into the corresponding output socket, and use the front panel switch to switch on/off.
These are quite cheap, but they do have some drawbacks. First, they switch direct mains voltage, which is equivalent to you switching the light on/off at the socket, so on some sound systems, this can result in a "Thump" being heard through the P.A. This is rare, but it does happen, and I don't warranty against it happening on your particular system.
The more professional (expensive) way of doing the same thing, is by using a low voltage switch, to fire a "Triac" circuit. This operates on the same principle as your average 4 channel lighting sequencer. Because the output is switched in this manner, there are no thumps. The outputs of these units are usually on a multi pin "bulgin" type socket for connection to a "Standmate" style adaptor.
The standmate is a useful product. It basically consists of a small plastic adaptor fitted with jubilee style spring clips which simply clip onto your stand pole. Then upto four effects plug into the Standmate. One single cable leaves the unit, which is fitted with a bulgin plug, which in turn plugs into a switch panel like the one mentioned above. - A simple neat way to connect upto 4 individual effects, and avoids several wires leaving your stand feeding each effect. I'll put up a picture of the standmate later.
I have one 4 channel switch unit, which is ex-demo, never been out on hire, and is in as new condition (3 months old). This is fully tested, and has only been used by us for lighting demos. I'll even stand the full 12 month warranty on it. It is one of the more expensive units which uses Triac Switching, and will switch effects upto 1000 Watts per channel (Max Total 3kw Load). I'll happily auction it off on here to the highest (Realistic) bidder. The New cost of this would be around £89. The output is on a bulgin socket so you will need a Standmate or similar adaptor, but i'll be offering these on the "May Offers" thread shortly.
Anybody want to start the bidding? (+ £5 postage costs).
As far as new switcher panels go, I believe that Gemini used to offer similar panels?, I'm in the process of re-establishing a trading relationship with them, so if you wait a couple of days then I may have some prices - they used to be quite reasonable for the basic panels, maybe Rob can comment on the latest product situation?.
The first option, is basically, just a switch panel, consisting of 4 or 8 mains switches fed from a single 13 Amp Cable. This allows you to physically switch upto 8 seperate lighting units. The outputs of these are usually on female IEC Sockets (You guys sometimes refer to the lead version as a "kettle lead"!). You just plug each effect into the corresponding output socket, and use the front panel switch to switch on/off.
These are quite cheap, but they do have some drawbacks. First, they switch direct mains voltage, which is equivalent to you switching the light on/off at the socket, so on some sound systems, this can result in a "Thump" being heard through the P.A. This is rare, but it does happen, and I don't warranty against it happening on your particular system.
The more professional (expensive) way of doing the same thing, is by using a low voltage switch, to fire a "Triac" circuit. This operates on the same principle as your average 4 channel lighting sequencer. Because the output is switched in this manner, there are no thumps. The outputs of these units are usually on a multi pin "bulgin" type socket for connection to a "Standmate" style adaptor.
The standmate is a useful product. It basically consists of a small plastic adaptor fitted with jubilee style spring clips which simply clip onto your stand pole. Then upto four effects plug into the Standmate. One single cable leaves the unit, which is fitted with a bulgin plug, which in turn plugs into a switch panel like the one mentioned above. - A simple neat way to connect upto 4 individual effects, and avoids several wires leaving your stand feeding each effect. I'll put up a picture of the standmate later.
I have one 4 channel switch unit, which is ex-demo, never been out on hire, and is in as new condition (3 months old). This is fully tested, and has only been used by us for lighting demos. I'll even stand the full 12 month warranty on it. It is one of the more expensive units which uses Triac Switching, and will switch effects upto 1000 Watts per channel (Max Total 3kw Load). I'll happily auction it off on here to the highest (Realistic) bidder. The New cost of this would be around £89. The output is on a bulgin socket so you will need a Standmate or similar adaptor, but i'll be offering these on the "May Offers" thread shortly.
Anybody want to start the bidding? (+ £5 postage costs).
As far as new switcher panels go, I believe that Gemini used to offer similar panels?, I'm in the process of re-establishing a trading relationship with them, so if you wait a couple of days then I may have some prices - they used to be quite reasonable for the basic panels, maybe Rob can comment on the latest product situation?.
Chris did you see my enquiry about Light Jockey cable?
Gemini / Lyte quest do a lovely switching controller, which I've been happy with for about a year now. (only took me 15 years to discover it! doh!)
I think its called a SF-288 (or something) - mainly black, with yellow diagonals in opposite corners.
It consists of two parts. A control panel, which stays down on the ground/decks with you, and a switch pack which sits up in the heavens with your lighting rig. A 9 pin (Atari Joystick/Mouse style connector with thumbscrews OUCH!) data cable links the two together.
The switch pack has 8 x IEC (kettle like) sockets on it, and a 9th IEC with is unswitched for perhaps a mirror ball motor, or UV or backing light/name light, which you'll never want to switch off.
Heres the clever bit....
The Control panel (19'' rack mountable) has 8 switches, in two banks of 4....bank A and Bank B.... Each switch (for each effect) can be switched to ON (all the time) OFF (all the time) or "TIMER"....
Each bank has a timer between 1minute and 16minutes (ish)
So, lets say you set bank A to 3 minutes, and bank B to 5 minutes. Anything which you set to TIMER in each bank, will come on for that many minutes, and then switch off for the "other" number of minutes, during which the other bank takes over. Its a great way of ensuring that "Duty cycles" of individual items are not exceeded (which could shorten bulb life, if over-run)
Wiring is a doddle. Instead of 8 x 5amp power cables/extension leads snaking their way upto your overhead lighting rig, you simply have ONE lead, and one thin data cable.
The Switchbox is good for about 1500watts at any one time, (eg: 6 x 250watt effects) and has a push button reset if you forget to count your currents!(or raisins)
The switchboxes are also daisy-chainable, so that if you wanted to run 16 lighting effects "up there" you can...When you flick ON channel 1, then the effect thats plugged into Channel one on EACH switchbox...comes on... (obviously, you need to run another power lead to the second switchbox), however, since each switchbox is only 1500watts, you could run one 13amp 2way trailing lead up to your rig, for them to share.
I think its called a SF-288 (or something) - mainly black, with yellow diagonals in opposite corners.
It consists of two parts. A control panel, which stays down on the ground/decks with you, and a switch pack which sits up in the heavens with your lighting rig. A 9 pin (Atari Joystick/Mouse style connector with thumbscrews OUCH!) data cable links the two together.
The switch pack has 8 x IEC (kettle like) sockets on it, and a 9th IEC with is unswitched for perhaps a mirror ball motor, or UV or backing light/name light, which you'll never want to switch off.
Heres the clever bit....
The Control panel (19'' rack mountable) has 8 switches, in two banks of 4....bank A and Bank B.... Each switch (for each effect) can be switched to ON (all the time) OFF (all the time) or "TIMER"....
Each bank has a timer between 1minute and 16minutes (ish)
So, lets say you set bank A to 3 minutes, and bank B to 5 minutes. Anything which you set to TIMER in each bank, will come on for that many minutes, and then switch off for the "other" number of minutes, during which the other bank takes over. Its a great way of ensuring that "Duty cycles" of individual items are not exceeded (which could shorten bulb life, if over-run)
Wiring is a doddle. Instead of 8 x 5amp power cables/extension leads snaking their way upto your overhead lighting rig, you simply have ONE lead, and one thin data cable.
The Switchbox is good for about 1500watts at any one time, (eg: 6 x 250watt effects) and has a push button reset if you forget to count your currents!(or raisins)
The switchboxes are also daisy-chainable, so that if you wanted to run 16 lighting effects "up there" you can...When you flick ON channel 1, then the effect thats plugged into Channel one on EACH switchbox...comes on... (obviously, you need to run another power lead to the second switchbox), however, since each switchbox is only 1500watts, you could run one 13amp 2way trailing lead up to your rig, for them to share.
This is exactly the same as I was talking about under the American DJ brand, only problem is after 3 yrs on the road my data cable has a break and sometimes effects switch off by themselves.
I'm looking for a new data cable but not sure if popping into my local (Pc shop) or (Holiday camp shop) would solve the problem, I assume it depends on number of pins etc and the easiest way would be to take it with me and try some if they'll let me, but I wondered if Chris had a contact?
I'm looking for a new data cable but not sure if popping into my local (Pc shop) or (Holiday camp shop) would solve the problem, I assume it depends on number of pins etc and the easiest way would be to take it with me and try some if they'll let me, but I wondered if Chris had a contact?
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| I'm looking for a new data cable but not sure if popping into my local (Pc shop) or (Holiday camp shop) would solve the problem, |
No idea, we have 2 of the lytequest units installed in the club that I do, but of course it is already prewired and the Remote power unit is mounted in the ceiling space so I'm not really familiar with the terminations on the unit. Hopefully, I'll be in receipt of the Gemini Information shortly, but I'm sure that rob will confirm the terminations in the meantime.
I'm guessing that it will be a standard moulded D plug to D Socket lead which you will be able to get from your local pc shop. Failing that EBUYER is good for pc leads and hardware
Good guess....yes, its a row of 5 pins over 4 pins.
On the Gemini/lytequest unit that I have, the controller is called the SFC-288 and the power pack/switchpack is called the SR-88. The data cable unfortunately is just called "25 Foot Control Cable" (obviously named by the same man that thinks up names for Saab/Volvo cars...912...845....614....etc..etc..)
Regretably, theres no pin-out, wiring diagram in the instructions.
Be wary that the switchpack has 2 x 9pin D connectors on it, one male, one female.
One of them goes to the control panel, the other is used to diasy-chain powerpacks together. The manual (single sheet of A4 folded) doesnt say which is which. From memory (CAREFUL - I cant remember if I've ever had amnesia!) the connector that goes to the controller is the one thats nearest the circuit breaker switch...and is toward the right of the middle of the powerpack.
On the Gemini/lytequest unit that I have, the controller is called the SFC-288 and the power pack/switchpack is called the SR-88. The data cable unfortunately is just called "25 Foot Control Cable" (obviously named by the same man that thinks up names for Saab/Volvo cars...912...845....614....etc..etc..)
Regretably, theres no pin-out, wiring diagram in the instructions.
Be wary that the switchpack has 2 x 9pin D connectors on it, one male, one female.
One of them goes to the control panel, the other is used to diasy-chain powerpacks together. The manual (single sheet of A4 folded) doesnt say which is which. From memory (CAREFUL - I cant remember if I've ever had amnesia!) the connector that goes to the controller is the one thats nearest the circuit breaker switch...and is toward the right of the middle of the powerpack.
Oh I'm alright on that as mine are clearly labelled so now all I have to do is get the inclination to go to Lakeside (Yuk)
Thanks For all your help guys!
I will continue to look around.
CYA!
I will continue to look around.
CYA!
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