hi Im a new DJ and i am going to build a lightbox, could someone please list what ill need to make one and if possible how.

Welcome.

Try using the search facility searching for light box, there's loads of threads on this.

Well, aside from the wood, you'll need a small baseball bat to help you defend you decision when talking to some other DJ's. Some DJ's just think that light boxes are "just so 70's".

Aside from that...You'll need TWO 8way Bulgin sockets. Its best to have two sockets, that way, one socket takes the power in from the Lighting Controller, whilst the other socket can be used to "daisy chain" other light boxes to the first screen.

If you're planning on using "fairy lights" then you'll need a thin piece of MDF board to drill holes into to poke the "fairy lights" though from the rear. Alternatively, if you're using larger bulbs, then you'll need to use battenmount light fittings...and heres your first dilema: Whether to go for bulbs with bayonet fittings (BC fitting) (the "Push and turn 10degrees-like ordinary household bulbs), or screw thread (ES). Both fittings have pros and cons. BC (bayonet caps) tend to be more secure after repeated transit/vibration, but in recent years its difficult to get any BC bulbs in more than 4 standard colours eg: RED/YELLOW/GREEN/BLUE. Also, BC fittings when mounted at 90degrees (EG: Facing the audience) can sometimes let heavier bulbs "sag" by about 5 degrees..hardly noticable, but important if your design doesnt leave much gap between bulbs. (Ker-pish!!!). ES (Eddison Screw) fittings (Be careful not to get mixed up with SES - small eddison screw fittings) dont allow the bulbs to wobble, are available in at least 6 colours (deep purple, orange, cyan? etc), BUT have a tendancy to unscrew themselves over a period of several gigs unless you manually check their tightness every gig or so.

There are also the "fairground" lighting bulbs which (I think it was Chris) were recommended a couple of weeks ago, but, since these run on 60volts, must be wired in series, in groups of 4 (16 in a box). These are based on the idea of white bulbs, with hard plastic covers available in about 10 or 12 colours. The catalogue which the link in Chriss(?) post gets you, also features some massive "Street sized" christmas decorations if you're desparate to out-do your neighbours this year (and have got £900+ for a street-width hanging decoration).

Next you need to find a way to link the 4 channels of power coming in from the Bulgin socket (from the controller), to the bulbs themselves. I've used Terminal strips (also known as Choc-blocks) those plastic strips which look somewhat like Lego bricks, with a screw holding each wire in. The idea being that you wire one long terminal strip to each of the four incoming channel from the controller, label those terminal strips 1,2,3 & 4 respectively, and attach a few of each of your bulb holders to each terminal strip (remember to work in groups of 4 x 60volt bulbs, IF using the fairground lighting bulbs above).

Finally, you'll need to obtain some perspex/plastic to cover the front of the screen. The two most common types are white opaque(sp?) which is translucent and simply hides the bulbs, taking on the colour of whatever bulbs are lit at the time - the "hard" version of hanging a sheet of paper in front of your bulbs. Alternatively, you can use "Prismatic perspex". This has thousands of tiny (4mm) pyramids over one side. Each single bulb that lights up in your box will look like 5 bulbs (like on a dice) through the prismatic perspex.

Three perspex considerations:

1) NEVER use reflector bulbs with perpsex. They focus their light AND heat toward the perspex and will melt it.

2) Allow a good 3inches+ between any bulbs and the perspex.

3) Whatever perspex you use (Opaque/prismatic), also add a sheet of thick CLEAR perspex in front, to stop bad cases of "Hokey Cokey Foot" from adding to your repair bills.

Other than that, you've just got to think of some nice patterns that go well with however many channels your controller offers. One hint for this, which helped me with my 4 screens, is to use a computer animation package...very easy. 1..2..3..4..1..2..3..4....

Gary/Prosounds,
as previously posted for the fronts if you ring round the local plastics companies and ask for 3mm opaque polypropolene sheet you will find it easier to cut(they may do it for you)and being a little softer will withstand hokey cokey foot no problem

cheers

mick

Good Tips and advice from Gary. But where is Spin!!! - A lightbox topic and no comment as of yet.


Also remember if you want to cut down on wiring, and you are building your own boxes, that you can buy 4 channel controllers (or chasers) in PCB Form. This is basically the guts of the free standing metal box versions which do all the work. Simply secure one of these PCB's within the first box, run mains to it using a male IEC Chassis scoket (The reverse connector to the kettle type lead) mounted on the back of your lightbox. By doing this you have eliminated one set of wiring (Controller to first box) and don't need to carry a seperate. 4 channel controller around with you. By mounting addtiional bulgin type scokets on the back of the first box, you can link out to other boxes or spotlamps / ropelights etc .

Even the PCB controllers have loading of around 1000W per channel giving the facility to switch rows of spotlamps and upto 66 pygmy lamps!!.

Remember, when using boxes filled with 40W or 60W lamps, or even 100W in the case of R95 type spotboxes not to overload the mains. Multiples of lamps soon add up especially if your controller is the multi-program type which may have more than one channel switched at any one time.

Also make sure that you use correctly rated cable for bulgin leads - 7 Core Trailor Wire is NOT approved for mains use, nor should it be used with voltages above 30v . Instead choose the "YY" cable which is multicore mains control cable - available in 7 core versions, the conductors have one green earth, and then 6 inner cores, all of the same colour, but marked 1,2,3,4 etc - ideal for channel numbering . YY cable isn't cheap, but it is tough and reliable and will keep you on the right side of Electrical Safety Regulations, and prevent a fire risk.

thanks for all your replys i really appreciate it

Here I am!!!

NOTHING WRONG WITH LIGHT BOXES YOUNG MAN ignore them!!

LOL

Thank goodness for that !!

I was getting worried as Spin too a little while to answer.

If you are very quick you may still be able to find fairy lights in the sales, left overs from Xmas

.. and if theres one thing guaranteed to get sin off his camode and away from his cocoa..... its post a topic on light boxes!!! xxxx

Yep I'm working on some wicked designs using 240 bulb strings, mind you maybe I should call these heavyboxes with all that extra cabling!!



Spin

If you want something to get you started, I have 5 lightboxes + bulgin cables and 3 channel controller. They need a coat of paint and a bit of cleaning up. Boxes are 3`x2`, 4`x3` and 2`x2`.If you want them you can have them for nothing. I live in Norfolk so really depends if you live fairly close by.
Pic below:



If you want them pm or e-mail me :-)

Hayd

Starmix disco website

Hi Hayd ,
after looking at the pics on your website , what are you using as a frontage on your disco now ?, it has a blue light and looks like a cloth with some kind of moonflower? light shining through it , looks nice on the picture

Cheaper than a light box, And lighter, try some silk and a laser crab or basic moonflower!

Thanks Ninelives,

New front consists of a podium style light unit ( 3 pieces ) with a console on the top containing, laptop , mixer , radio mic , twin cd etc and two matching light boxes. All are made of thin lightweight ply ( 6mm ) and lit with low power flurescent tubes. Fronts are a sandwich of perspex , a white nylon material ( to make them opaque ) , blue coloured gel and the stars are made of felt. I just have to make a new console to match base and podium next.

My idea was to make the front a static colour so that the focus was the dmx lighting rather than the lightboxes.

Any feedback on the new look is much appriciated as this will be my first weekend out with it.



Cheers
Hayd

Starmix Website

^^^
Bumped for comments

Very impressive Hayd,
Well I like it anyway even if no one else is going to comment.

Something U.V perhaps?

^^^Bumped again since Bill obviously wants one - whatever it is!^^^

Looks excellent in Blue!!!
they look almost like the blue "cold cathode" tubes used to light the interior of PC`S
Very effective......by the way I have tried to email you but the addy isnt accepting mail

Ade

Thanks for your comments, my e-mail addy seems to be working fine though ( got one from you LOL )

cheers

Hayd

well it sent me one back saying......


----- The following addresses had permanent fatal errors -----
----- Transcript of session follows -----
... while talking to mailserver.xxxxxxxxxxxx.co.uk.:
>>> DATA
<<< 550 Requested action not taken: Storage problem
554 5.0.0 Service unavailable

will try to use small pigeon next time, microsoft is so unreliable these days

The new front looks class - good luck with it

I think the front of your show looks realy nice Hayd. Like the idea of having a static front.

My old light boxes will shortly be headed High Fidelity's way as he was first to e-mail me for them and prosound dosn't want to contact me.

Spin will be pleased to know that lightboxes still have a great following judging by the number of people who wanted my old boxes. Can't resist a bargain us DJ types LOL



Hayd

Starmix disco Webby

Damm.....he dragged em out from under me

LOL , time to do some carpentry :-)




Hayd

Thats just downright hurtful....... lol

Hi! I like this design, it looks classy! Well done! I dont personally have anything against light screens though, having once had nearly 20 of them back in the early 80s!!!! LOL!

light screens are ok just ask len in burton upon trent (kingy whats his disco called???)

i like the new frontage too!

I think that's the dogs b*ll*cks

That really looks impressive!

Looks good, and looks different.

Also looks like it doesnt fold, which might be a problem for transit. But, what the audience sees is more important, and it looks great!

Transit , not a problem m8. The two outter screen connect together front to front and the center splits apart into 3 pieces :-)

Thanks for the positive feedback

Hayd

Starmix Disco Website