If anyone has any details I would be pleased to hear about them.
Cheers
Ade
Full Version: Plans for building Light Screens ????
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I am thinking of building a couple of light screens as I have a couple of very tame carpenters who owe me big time...lol, but I can`t seem to find any plans or details of how to put them together and wire them up etc ????
If anyone has any details I would be pleased to hear about them.
Cheers
Ade
If anyone has any details I would be pleased to hear about them.
Cheers
Ade
Ask Spin ......
Cheers I have found a light screen thread with Spin`s posting on it so I have added to the thread
LOL ok well yes I do build my own (I just can't resist making pretty patterns)
Boxes I won't go into details as thats obvious, I normally go out about this time of year and buy up all the 20 or 40 light sets from Woolies B & Q etc etc then using one set per channel work out a pattern which uses all the 20/40 for that channel. repeat with 3 or 4 sets and voila one working lightbox. The only thing you may have to do is cut, insert a piece and re-solder the wire if you don't have enough to go from one side of the box to the other, but thats easy.
to be honest the hardest part is working out patterns using only 20 bulbs (or 40 bulbs is easier)
that done connect one lead from each channel to 1234 on the bulgin socket connect all the returns together and solder a fly lead to them to neutral on your bulgin socket. No earth is necessary (your boxes are wood are'nt they) then solder fly leads to each pin of the bulgin socket and take them across to another bulgin socket so you can continue on to the next lightbox.
Hardest and most expensive job as somebody said elsewhere is the front screening. I got round this by buying the prismatic suspended ceiling perspex (try it both ways pimples in and pimples out see which looks best) (with the lights on) this tends to be very floppy and flimsy but if you then cover this with 3mm clear perspex (B&Q etc) its very cheap and virtually indestructible.
Hope this helps , go start drawing dots on paper to plan your lights, names, initials, patterns etc the only limit is your imagination!
Spin
Boxes I won't go into details as thats obvious, I normally go out about this time of year and buy up all the 20 or 40 light sets from Woolies B & Q etc etc then using one set per channel work out a pattern which uses all the 20/40 for that channel. repeat with 3 or 4 sets and voila one working lightbox. The only thing you may have to do is cut, insert a piece and re-solder the wire if you don't have enough to go from one side of the box to the other, but thats easy.
to be honest the hardest part is working out patterns using only 20 bulbs (or 40 bulbs is easier)
that done connect one lead from each channel to 1234 on the bulgin socket connect all the returns together and solder a fly lead to them to neutral on your bulgin socket. No earth is necessary (your boxes are wood are'nt they) then solder fly leads to each pin of the bulgin socket and take them across to another bulgin socket so you can continue on to the next lightbox.
Hardest and most expensive job as somebody said elsewhere is the front screening. I got round this by buying the prismatic suspended ceiling perspex (try it both ways pimples in and pimples out see which looks best) (with the lights on) this tends to be very floppy and flimsy but if you then cover this with 3mm clear perspex (B&Q etc) its very cheap and virtually indestructible.
Hope this helps , go start drawing dots on paper to plan your lights, names, initials, patterns etc the only limit is your imagination!
Spin
Great stuff Spin, I will get around to that in the next few days, and I thought it was all Pygmy bulbs and holders....lol
Well there will be no Christmas lights on our house next year, but what a light show....lol
Mnay Thanks
Ade ( Hoseman)
Well there will be no Christmas lights on our house next year, but what a light show....lol
Mnay Thanks
Ade ( Hoseman)
| QUOTE (The Spindoctor @ Jan 12 2004, 02:41 AM) |
| Hardest and most expensive job as somebody said elsewhere is the front screening. I got round this by buying the prismatic suspended ceiling perspex (try it both ways pimples in and pimples out see which looks best) (with the lights on) this tends to be very floppy and flimsy but if you then cover this with 3mm clear perspex (B&Q etc) its very cheap and virtually indestructible. |
Pimples in - facing toward the light bulbs normally gives the impression that one light bulb looks likes the centre of 5 light bulbs, eg: One light bulb make a pattern appear, like the "5" on a dice :-:
Thats Prismatic perspex.
And yes, as Spin says, this type of perspex is very fragile and very susceptable to "hokey cokey foot", or "New York, New York topcapping"...even accidentally done.
A few years ago, I added a 6mm thick piece of clear perspex, in front of the prismatic perspex, and havent had to replace ANY of the perspexes since.
I use 4 2ft x 2ft screens, and they get placed in a particular way, each gig, to form an expanding/contracting diamond shape, using all four, each screen showing only one quarter of the overall pattern.
The channel layout for the bulbs is as follows...each screen has 4 rows of 4 bulbs.
I've replaced channel "4" with stars so you can pick out the diamond pattern.
1.2.3.*...*.3.2.1
2.3.*.1...1.*.3.2
3.*.1.2...2.1.*.3
*.1.2.3...3.2.1.*
*.1.2.3...3.2.1.*
3.*.1.2...2.1.*.3
2.3.*.1...1.*.3.2
1.2.3.*...*.3.2.1
The bulbs are 25watt "golf ball" bulbs, which I spray with car paint.
16 x 25 watt bulbs per screen = 400 watts per screen
4 x screens = 1600 watts
So, as long as you have a controller, or switch/dimmer pack that can handle 400 watts per channel, you've got no problems.
One remaining consideration however, is ventilation. 400watts of light bulbs in a screen gets pretty hot, even though its not really getting 400watts constantly due to the bulbs flashing on and off all night. You could fit a plastic air grill(e) to the top of the cabinets (since heat travels upwards), or make the back panel of the screens, an inch or two "short" at the back. Either way, remember to leave a air slot/vent at the bottom too, to facilitate air intake.
I agree with the above comments about heat etc. Which is why I took the step of steering away from anything except fairylight bulbs.
You can make the box as sealed as you like = no dust = no cleaning except the ocasional wipe of the front with glass cleaner!!
They generate little or no heat, and on average i spose i change maybe 2 or three bulbs every year or so (At Christmas of course) Also if one bulb goes out the rest remain lit you don't have a channel go down.
Best way to secure is through a sheet of hardboard (play around with different size drills till you get the right size for the holder) then glue gun them in place!
Not too bright on the eyes & pretty patterns, but if you need it brighter just build more screens Heh heh heh
Spin
You can make the box as sealed as you like = no dust = no cleaning except the ocasional wipe of the front with glass cleaner!!
They generate little or no heat, and on average i spose i change maybe 2 or three bulbs every year or so (At Christmas of course) Also if one bulb goes out the rest remain lit you don't have a channel go down.
Best way to secure is through a sheet of hardboard (play around with different size drills till you get the right size for the holder) then glue gun them in place!
Not too bright on the eyes & pretty patterns, but if you need it brighter just build more screens Heh heh heh
Spin
I was thinking of making one using the LED Xmas lights that are now available. This would work out more expensive initially, but the life of each expectancy of LED’s is a lot longer than fairy light bulbs. (And no heat at all)
LED Lights are not really bright enough to go through perspex so if you do take the fairy light option go for the bright filament ones - not LEDS.
Somebody else mentioned using lights used on fairground lighting, and this is a good idea. These lamps are available in either 240V or low voltage options wired in series for mains use. For example 4 x 60V bulbs will operate happily from 230V mains when wired in SERIES. If you don't understand how this works then go with the 240v lamp option and diasy chain them together.
The advantage of fairground lighting is that it comes with a choice of coloured cap - which also negates the need for bulbs behind perspex and the heat / expense associated with that. Simply buy the holders poke them through a panel and add the bulb & coloured cap. The bulbs, being all white, also remove having to have spares of different colours with you
.
Other advantages of Fairground Lighting is the bulbs are bright but low wattaged - little heat and no chance of kids burning themselves on them, and last for ages. The drawback is that the holders and caps can be expensive in multiples, but they are one -off items and once bought you only need to replace the bulbs.
A supplier of these fittings can be found HERE
Somebody else mentioned using lights used on fairground lighting, and this is a good idea. These lamps are available in either 240V or low voltage options wired in series for mains use. For example 4 x 60V bulbs will operate happily from 230V mains when wired in SERIES. If you don't understand how this works then go with the 240v lamp option and diasy chain them together.
The advantage of fairground lighting is that it comes with a choice of coloured cap - which also negates the need for bulbs behind perspex and the heat / expense associated with that. Simply buy the holders poke them through a panel and add the bulb & coloured cap. The bulbs, being all white, also remove having to have spares of different colours with you
.Other advantages of Fairground Lighting is the bulbs are bright but low wattaged - little heat and no chance of kids burning themselves on them, and last for ages. The drawback is that the holders and caps can be expensive in multiples, but they are one -off items and once bought you only need to replace the bulbs.
A supplier of these fittings can be found HERE
Yes as Chris states Fairground Turbo Lights are very good I have fitted them in all my light screens and have not replaced a bulb in three years. The lamp, holder and coloured cap will cost about £1 and the bulbs are about 50p ish.
If you use the 60 volt bulbs they will last a lot longer than the 240v lamps but you do need 4 in series so with a 4 channnel system you can only use in sets of 16
(4x4). I find that they also give a super crytal clear colour through the perspex and they never fade like paint. The best supplier is as per Chris,s link.
I have some on one of our fun fair rides and they have been on for at least 8 years without replacement. I also have these lights around my stand and across the top and when you are in party mode just flick them on and watch the crowd.
They give a good bright alternative to projectors but you would not want them on all the time, use them as a special feature or show opener.
The lamp holders do have exposed solder on terminals so you must make sure that no one can touch them. If in doubt get them wired and installed by a professional Remco will do this job if you wish.
Hope some of this is of use
If you use the 60 volt bulbs they will last a lot longer than the 240v lamps but you do need 4 in series so with a 4 channnel system you can only use in sets of 16
(4x4). I find that they also give a super crytal clear colour through the perspex and they never fade like paint. The best supplier is as per Chris,s link.
I have some on one of our fun fair rides and they have been on for at least 8 years without replacement. I also have these lights around my stand and across the top and when you are in party mode just flick them on and watch the crowd.
They give a good bright alternative to projectors but you would not want them on all the time, use them as a special feature or show opener.
The lamp holders do have exposed solder on terminals so you must make sure that no one can touch them. If in doubt get them wired and installed by a professional Remco will do this job if you wish.
Hope some of this is of use
I have tried in vain to get some prismatic suspended ceiling perspex, but n one areound hee sells it? i need a 30" square piece.
Any suggestions on someone nationally?
thanks.
Any suggestions on someone nationally?
thanks.
I think i will check my spelling before i post next time 
Try the following who do prismatic and its not that thin stuff either I don't know the current price though
mailto:sales@adventplastics.co.uk
Derek Hornbuckle is the guy you need, sorry I don't have a phone number to hand
Spin
mailto:sales@adventplastics.co.uk
Derek Hornbuckle is the guy you need, sorry I don't have a phone number to hand
Spin
Thanks, will do.
Atomic Ian
Atomic Ian
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