Full Version: Which speakers is better
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Hi please could you tell me which speaker is better and what the overall quality of these speakers are compared to other makes. Many Thanks please reply A.S.A.P
cant say Ive heard them.... sound is quite a personal thing so the best answer is to go into a suppliers shop and listen!
I've never heard them either 
, although I would excercise caution when matching them to an Amplifier.
A quick look at their website lndicates that the power output is rated in "Peak" rather than RMS ratings, so don't be under the illusion that you are getting a true 400W speaker because you aren't.
A 400W (Peak) speaker should only be used with an amplifier with an output of around 150 - 175 Watts RMS. When buying any sound equipment always find out and work with the RMS ratings. So if you buy these make sure that you Amp has an output of this level, otherwise you'll end up posting something like THIS
Some Technical Terms associated with Speaker Ratings:-
PEAK = The MAXIMUM limit that a speaker can accept for a very, very short period of time as the word "PEAK" would suggest
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RMS = An Average CONTINUOUS and (reasonably) safe rating that a speaker will comfortably handle with no stress or noticable distortion
PMPO = (Peak Music Power Output) - Again a very misleading figure often used for cheap computer / car / hi-fi speakers, this is the maximum figure that the speaker accepts (Usually under laboratory conditions and not real world ones!) before it destructs!. Often you'll find the figure states:- 800W PMPO @ 1khz - this is misleading mainly because its been tested with a clean fixed signal of 1khz in frequency and NOT with the ever changing peaks in a dynamic music signal that it would experience when used for music use!. So those nice computer speakers that you see advertised as being 1000 Watts PMPO - are probably only rated at 25W RMS
, although I would excercise caution when matching them to an Amplifier.A quick look at their website lndicates that the power output is rated in "Peak" rather than RMS ratings, so don't be under the illusion that you are getting a true 400W speaker because you aren't.
A 400W (Peak) speaker should only be used with an amplifier with an output of around 150 - 175 Watts RMS. When buying any sound equipment always find out and work with the RMS ratings. So if you buy these make sure that you Amp has an output of this level, otherwise you'll end up posting something like THIS
Some Technical Terms associated with Speaker Ratings:-
PEAK = The MAXIMUM limit that a speaker can accept for a very, very short period of time as the word "PEAK" would suggest
.RMS = An Average CONTINUOUS and (reasonably) safe rating that a speaker will comfortably handle with no stress or noticable distortion
PMPO = (Peak Music Power Output) - Again a very misleading figure often used for cheap computer / car / hi-fi speakers, this is the maximum figure that the speaker accepts (Usually under laboratory conditions and not real world ones!) before it destructs!. Often you'll find the figure states:- 800W PMPO @ 1khz - this is misleading mainly because its been tested with a clean fixed signal of 1khz in frequency and NOT with the ever changing peaks in a dynamic music signal that it would experience when used for music use!. So those nice computer speakers that you see advertised as being 1000 Watts PMPO - are probably only rated at 25W RMS
Sensitivity is also something worth looking at. I have some smaller 10" low cost speakers (childrens partys) that take an awful amount of driving from the amplifier compared to my best 15" main function ones.
From my college days it is something like, the specification is a measure of the dB SPL (sound pressure level) that can be expected from a speaker relative to its power input.
From my college days it is something like, the specification is a measure of the dB SPL (sound pressure level) that can be expected from a speaker relative to its power input.
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| Sensitivity is also something worth looking at. I have some smaller 10" low cost speakers (childrens partys) that take an awful amount of driving from the amplifier compared to my best 15" main function ones. From my college days it is something like, the specification is a measure of the dB SPL (sound pressure level) that can be expected from a speaker relative to its power input. |
True.
sensitivity is very impotant. It's measured in dbs @ 1watt/1metre. Any rating below 98db is not worth buying. e.g 300watt speakers rated 95db 1watt/1metre require twice as much amp power to reach 300 watts than a cab rated at 98db. This leads to other issues of power compression and a much higher risk of blowing your lower sensitivity cabs. Hence the money saved on cheaper models is a false economy.
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