NO...dont mix Anti-freeze into your Smoke fluid... this is a nice simple post about helping you to reduce a few common mis-haps, now that we seem to be, most definately, in the winter part of the UK year (EG: The 360 days where we dont moan that its too hot!)

Now, Im sure that the ol' timers on here will know this tip already, but some of the newer DJ's may not. The simple premise is this:

Almost all types of bulb "blow" more easily if they are switched on when (very) cold.


Take this "worse case scenario" (sorry if it sounds "too familiar" to anyone)....

Your gears been stored in a van or trailer, outside, for 5 days since the last gig. Its been cold all week. You pull up at a venue, lug all the gear in, set up the lighting first, switch it on to test it and "PLINK!" there goes 2 x £7 of 250watt bulbs. You replace the bulbs with some out of the spares box which was packed into the same van, and "Plink!" one bulb goes this time. You shrug and move onto set up your sound.

The simple solution is to TRY (not always possible in all venues) to give your bulbs time to get to room temperature (or warmer) before applying power to them. This applies to any type of bulb excluding florescent tubes (EG: Ultra Violet tubes).

Also, if you're running any 4 channel controllers, or dimmer packs, to drive Par Cans, Pinspots, Reflector bulbs, Pygmys, or even straightforward, bog-standard GLS household light bulbs, you may find a handy feature on the controller and/or dimmer pack, called "Pre-heat".

Pre-heat is usually and adjustable trimmer (rotary control) inside, or on the back of the unit. Most pre-heats tend to be just enough to get the filaments of the bulb glowing, which, surprisingly is just enough to help prepare the bulb for switch on.

Also, moving away from bulbs, as temperatures drop lower still, remember that LCD displays eg: On CD-decks, some laptops etc...will not like cold weather either, and will definately NOT appreciate being left in a van for 5 days. Some LCD displays just "get slow" in changing from one image to another...but recover from this as they "thaw". Other displays (especially at lower temps) form blackened rainbow blobs which are permanent. This is not a problem however for flourescent multi-coloured displays.

Another temporary issue is dew, or condensation, which can often form on glass...havent got any glass? how about the laser optic lens on your CD decks, laptop CD-Rom drives, or Karaoke players? Ah...That glass. Condensation, can form when objects are brought from cold environments, into warm ones, or vice versa. Luckily, the problem often softs itself out given half an hour or so in the new environment.


Anyone else got any "hot"(?) winter tips (apart from "move to Florida"....keep 'em Disco related)

What a helpful chap you are Gary Thank You!

I'm not a new DJ but I'd never really considered those points. Makes sense really when you think about it! I've always tucked my gear up safe and warm (I rarely use it now - mainly work residences).

As for leaving a laptop in a freezing enviroment.... that's asking for trouble

Remember that the condensation that forms on the surface of your gear can also form on the surface of PCB's and metal parts (Motors, gears etc). Changes in temperature can also occur whilst the gear is being stored for instance in a vehicle, garage of outbuilding. Given the extreme changes in outside temperature that we experience from day to day can you imagine how much condensation and damp has formed on your (unattended) gear whilst in storage....-4c one day then back to +10c the next? - this isn't unusual for our winters these days

Bear in mind that condensation can cause rust to form on gears and in moving parts, and can easily corrode circuit boards and delicate Surface Mount components used in 99% of disco equipment. What may happen during the winter months may not be discovered until that corroded joint starts arc-ing, or the Amp dies but either way it can be avoided.

If you gear is not used for long periods then try and keep it indoors and not in the vehicle. If you have a secure outbuilding or garage which is unheated, consider using background heating such as "Suntubes" or panel heating. These are low wattage heaters which consume around the same in power as 1 or 2 lightbulbs - they only give a gentle background heat, but are more than enough to keep frost and damp at bay. The cost of running one for a winter season is far less then any subsequent repair which may need to be done later - especially if you use them with a frost thermostat which only activates them when the temperature drops below a certain level.

Daft as it may sound - but covering your gear with "survival" type blankets also does a great deal to keeping heat in and damp and frost out. These are the silver foil type things which only cost a few £££'s and are easily obtainable from Army & navy, outdoor persuit and camping type outlets.

Now is also a good time to get your car / van serviced, top up the Anti-Freeze, check the battery and tyres etc.

Some good advice here. To help remove condensation from lazer lens open the CD drawers at the earliest opportunity when setting up and allow some warmer air in (or take a hair dryer!)

PaulS

Has any body tried fitting a mains low power panel heater inside a van ? , even one of those metal tube things thats used in a greenhouse, I would prefer just to plug in a mains lead at 3am rather than emtpy the gear at 3am on a frosty or snowing morning

I think you can get external all weather mains connectors and I was thinking that the female side of the adapter could some way be fitted to one of the vans panels covered by a spring flap.

Any ideas? or what the running costs would be if used each night.

My daughters husband works in a place they make flat panels for heaters , they are some sorta plastic sheeting with sommit sandwiched betwen the sheets so getting a couple for myself is no problem.

Bill,

The "suntubes" I refered to are indeed the tubular type that you see in Greenhouses, shop windows etc, and these are supplied with clamps which could easily be screwed or clamped at some point inside the Van loading area.

Power loading depends on which manufacturer you choose, although as a rule of thumb the loading is around 45 - 60 watts per foot of tube, and the tubes are available in 1ft - 5 ft lengths.

Given that you can run 100Watts continuously for 10 hours for 1 unit (1kw/h) of electricity you would be looking at around 7p for every 100W consumption per 10 hours. Economy 7 users would get this for around 2p during the Economy 7 tariff hours .

You could also fit the waterproof 3 pin connector outside the vehicle - similar to how they fit them to caravans.

Excately what the forum is about, helpful tips. Thanks Gary and Chris.

Just a quick safety tip regarding the above. If you choose to fit a permanent external connector to a vehicle, make sure that any cables passing through the vehicle body are well protected. I recommend sleeving the cable in tubing and always fit a rubber grommet into the hole in the metal to stop the cable chaffing against it.

Where a plug and socket combination is used always use the FEMALE connector for the lead carrying the current from the mains. This way if the mating connection came adrift you wouldn't have live solid brass pins visible to touch!.

Sun Tubes are Also Available from here

trusty range... average 78 miles to each gig.... extremely efficient heater....! No probs for me! Mind you, in the cold, the first thing I take in are my cd cases...which are promptly stood next to the nearest radiator!

Oh yes remember never to lick frozen metal

Don't forget it works the other way around too, hot lamps blow quicker too so once you have finished don't rush to get home

....another thing I do.... unplug all my lighting first... load up sound gear and leave the lights til last.......

....ere gazza...didnt I just say that!!

And don't mix anti-freeeze with your smoke fluid..............

ERR extra cold like -25 err very simple,like do just club work in winter or set up the day before!

Hi

Woops our garage has no electrical supply, do the survival blankets do a good enough job?

Darren

I have built a large wooden boxed area within our unheated garage which has extra rockwool insulation and plastic sheeting. I keep my speakers here. Having the extreme temperatures we have ,just transporting the equipment in -20c is problematic so i normaly set up several hours before the gig and just leave the gear to thaw for at least 3 hours before turning it on. The cold here is extremely dry which helps.

A couple of Big thick old army/hospital blankets covering the gear keeps the heat in on the way home form the gig so things dont cool to quick and develop problems.

and they also come in handy when you break down in a snow drift 50 miles form civilisation

Here's the easy option....

During those cold wet nights... Only DJ in venues with there own kit !

And then you dont even need to pack the kit back up again!!!

Anyone know if TFT(flat panel) screens suffer from cold weather?

I'm wondering........
How difficult it would be to duct hot engine coolant into the rear of a Transit, say, supplying a remote heater and fan?

Possible, certainly, just not plain sailing.

A chance to give the equipment a bit of 'pre-heat' on the way to the gig.......

I always a small fan heater on a timer for the trailerwhich is pluged in when the trailer aint being towed from early Octkeeps it snug as a bug.

Those other heaters from greenhouses sound good i will have to lok into that one.

I carry a small hairdryer just in case I get condensation on the lens. It only happens when I do a sports centre where the room is humid (from the showers).