I have 2 Chauvet Micro Barrels & 2 micro scans, these are the original ones and not the new version out at the moment. The problem I am having is that a numbe of people are complaining about the lights been too bright and I have to admit they are very hard on the eyes!! In the instrustions is says to use the specified bulb that I am using at present. Can I use a lower voltage bulb or is there another way around this dilemna??

I would imagine that there would be some kind of resistor which you could add in-line to one of the two wires leading to the bulb holder, to dim the bulb by 5%, 10%, 20% etc...

This would not only save the audiences eyes, but would give you startling increases in bulb life. I read somewhere that running a normal bulb (EG: Household Domestic GLS lightbulb at 95%, quadruples its life span).

Chris...a potential new-line of kits for you maybe... two terminal strips, 1 x carefully calculated resistor... OH! reduced lamp sales...

Well it takes a 25Watt resistor to drop the voltage from 24v to around 22.5v to offer the equivalent of the Lamp life extender already found as standard on most effects, so to dim the blub to a more appreciative level would require the use of a 50W+ wirewound resistor, pretty substantial heatsinking and a fair amount of space!. Sadly non of these are practical on the effects you have mentioned!.

This point takes me back to a discussion we had on here over the Summer, when we were debating the best lights to use at Weddings etc. My own feeling on this is that the most effective and powerful lighting is not ALWAYS the best route to go down for the Mobile D.J since the functions we do are for all ages.

Scanners, by design are almost impossible to control with regard to light spillage and not really practical for family or older persons functions where the scanner rotates around the room and keeps catching the eyes of those seated, or stood at the bar, which = annoyance and complaints from people who may otherwise be enjoying their evening, and at the end of the day that is the last thing you want.

Scanners (and smoke / snow etc) are great for Schools, 18th's etc where a young audience are present, but a big for the average wedding, anniversary etc. Instead consider something more practical, in time, such as Moonflowers (NJD Datamoon, Constella Chameloen 4, NJD Chaos 2002 etc) where the beams can be aimed on the dancefloor or ceiling and once set up they stay put!.

I'm going to use Mikeee's experience once again, since his show is a great example of the lighting which a Mobile Disco should be using for an average function. If you are just starting out then these are the effects that you should be considering, rather than going for waggling mirrors and a huge price tag!.

(see below for Mikeees roadshow piccy)

If you look at the picture you can see that he uses moonflowers - usually 2 of each effect. All are pointed at the dancefloor leaving the seating / bar area free of scanning light effects! the result? plenty of coloured light of the dancefloor where it belongs and no annoyance to the seated area of the audience.

Spin's show is also very similar and although using different effects to Mikeee, since his is mainly filled with Moonflowers and Pinspots (directional - i.e control over where the light goes) and ambient low wattage coloured lighting from his (many!) lightboxes. Again plenty of light and variation where it needs to be, but very little spillage beyond the dancefloor!.

So the general rule here is that you need something in addition to scanners. Yes, use scanners for the functions where they will be appreciated, but have other effects for the general functions with older age groups, and always leave the seating area darkened. In larger rooms I often point an NJD Chaos at ceiling level over the seating area, this often give enough ambient light so people aren't walking into each other , but doesn't cause annoyance. Other useful effects in addition to moonflowers are UV Lights - very bright when the bride is on the dancefloor, and the Chauvet Abyss - a Colour changing rippling water effect and don't forget the good old retro oil wheel projector!.

If you must use your scanners for these sorts of functions then you may benefit from downgrading the bulbs to 24v 150W - these are the lower wattage equivalents to the 250W ELC. They are, harder to get hold of since they are very rare and not really used in Disco Equipment, but they do exist. Although this really won't solve your problem for the long term, since even 150W is still more than enough to blind your audience and it won't stop the mirror from directing the light beyond the dancefloor.

...and a bonus point to anyone who can name the venue shown in the picture....


....except Mikeee....



If it were me with the "complaints from audience" with regards to lighting brightness, and I was in a regular venue, where eventually the venue management might get to hear about it, I'd certainly try the 25watt resistor (what are the other specs Chris?...you know..all that micro-nano-watty-tolerance-voltage-thingyma whatsit stuff)

I would also try more physical means...such as a small amount of PALE lighting gel (as used in Par cans) mounted onto the mirror, or across the light aparture of the effect.

Unless of course, the effects can simply be angled down toward the dancefloor more, as shown in Mikeee's setup.

The 25 Watt Resistor was an old engineers trick to extend the short lamp life of the expensive lamps for the 250W effects in the past. Most newer effects already run at around 22.5v in order to extend the life of the lamp in any case. You won't get much of a difference in using this trick with regards to lamp brightness. Better to go for the 24v 150W lamp option.

Added:-

If you have any old effects which don't benefit from having a lamp extender, you can fit a dropper resistor in series with the LAMP (NOT the mains side of the transformer) which will drop the voltage to 22.5v which will in turn extend the lamp life by between 3 and 5 times .

For any effect using a 24V 250W lamp you need a 0.15 ohm 25W metal clad resistor (£1.48ea + VAT from Farnell:- Tel 08701 200 200, part no 344-904). Wire this in Series* with one of the leads to the lamp holder and bingo! - instant lamp life extender with very little light loss !

*Series = cut one of the leads going to the lamp holder and then solder the resistor between the cut ends of the wire.

Mikee is that your own stand in the photo if so can you give me some more info on it please

Looks like an Ultimax stand...which is what I use.

Loads of options, and even clamp on shelves, pivoting rackmounts etc..etc...

Yep I'm one of the Ultimax - using D.J's too

Any links or price would it fit in a car hatch back

In this Order...

Me
about £125ish + Delivery for the basic stand and Goal post assy
Probably not due to the length of the inner support bars I struggle to get them into a small van.

What are hanging off mikee's stand at each side

Are they a good effect?

Chris can you get hold off the stand and goal posts that lie flat or not?

Hi chappies,

Yep one x full width Ultimax Stand, fits nicly in to the Volvo, with a couple of inches to spare.
And heres a quick list of kit...........

Equipment


AUDIO

3x Sony CD players
1x Sony Minidisc player
Citronic SM450 mixer
C-Audio RA 3000 amp
Carlsbro SX600i amp
Carlsbro Beta 115 speakers
Beyer Dynamic M 69 Mic
Sennheiser Evolution Radio Mic

LIGHTING

1x Soundlab mushroom effect
2x Chauvet “bobs”
2x Abstract Twister 4’s
2x Constella Chamleon 3’s
2x NJD Chaos’s
2x Chauvet “Abyss’s”
2x Lyte Quest 8 way switch units
1x 4’ UV


This is put together on an Ultimax stand. With several miles of cable to link it all together.

Mikeee? had you just delivered a box of Milk Tray chocies when that picture was taken?

From memory the Ultimax stands come in three widths (or is that lengths?) 1.6metres, 1.7, or 1.8 metres (which is the one I use).

Also you've got several options of goal post bar...such as

Single bar

Double bar - basically 2 sturdier single bars. One welded 4 inches above the other.

Multi/power bars - which have electical sockets pre-wired into the bars.


Great range - see/PM Chris for a better idea of costs/range etc.

Gary, milk tray, darling how did you know (hic)

I have the 1.7mtr, which was the widst at the time.

the piccy was taken earlier this summer.

I have the single bar. i have a 4 way IEC at the top of each upright, with a multicore feed to the switching unit on the bottem shelf. All the cable are "strapped" to the bar with double sided velcro - keeps it neat.